Bienvenidos a Mexican Dining Week on OnMilwaukee.com. This week, in honor of Cinco de Mayo, we're spicing things up with daily articles about Mexican restaurants, foods, drinks, sweets and more. Enjoy a week of sizzling stories that will leave you craving Milwaukee's Latin offerings. Olé!
Growing up in Milwaukee in the 1950s and '60s was a white bread experience, with the exception of Fridays, when we ate rye bread – with our fish fries.
Flavor enhancement began and ended with salt in my family's kitchen. My mom made chili without chili powder.
Pizza was the exotic new ethnic food. Carry-out chop suey from Chinese restaurants was as gastronomically adventurous as many Milwaukeeans cared or dared to be. Our palates were being trained on generally bland European cuisines, and while some of us were eating duck blood soup or sauerbraten at home, our tastes were far from global.
Nacho, quesadilla and chimichanga were not in our vocabulary. Margarita? Must be a girl's name.
I moved from Milwaukee in 1969 without ever having seen a Mexican restaurant in my hometown. A trip to Southern California the year before had made me aware of a chain called Taco Bell, but the taco thing sounded a little dangerous. Too foreign for my tender taste buds.
Returning to Brew City from the East Coast in 1972, I discovered a Mexican restaurant had opened within a mile of my new home. I suspect that El Matador, which occupied the space now filled by BBC Bar & Grill at 2022 E. North Ave., introduced most East Siders to Mexican food. It was the lone outpost north of Walker's Point for south-of-the-border cuisine.
Operated by the Monreal family, El Matador had three locations – 6th and Bruce, 92nd and Bluemound, and the North Avenue spot. The last one closed years ago.
Coaxed into the East Side El Matador by friends, I learned that my stomach would not explode if I ate sliced jalapenos, and the gooey goodness of cheese and onion enchiladas seemed quite natural in the cheesehead …
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